Yesterday’s downpour didn’t stop guests from gathering at Via Stendhal as it was under Milan’s grey skies that Diesel presented its Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection. And it was inside translucent, teardrop-shaped pods that creative director Glenn Martens— now in his fifth Spring-Summer season at the helm— unveiled the Italian label’s most recent offering, staged in a presentation that, perhaps unintentionally, echoed the weather outside: unpredictable.
In a cobbled courtyard, models stood scattered across the open-air space, each sealed inside their own transparent bubble while press, industry insiders, and celebrities drifted between them, getting closer to the clothes than they ever could at dimly lit runway shows where even a decent photo feels impossible. At first glance, Kinder Surprise instantly came to mind: oversized shells concealing treasure you’re itching to discover. But when we floated the comparison to Martens, he laughed off the theory. The real inspiration, the 42-year-old revealed, wasn’t the iconic chocolate snack at all, but Pokémon Go.
@milleworlddotcom the goat has spoken #diesel #dieselss26 #glennmartens #mfw #milanfashionweek ♬ original sound – milleworlddotcom
Unconvinced by his explanation, our initial instincts weren’t entirely misplaced. The notion of egg was in fact baked into the concept, so much so, it actually played a central role in the presentation: a literal egg hunt staged across Milan. Martens unleashed his latest designs onto the whole city itself just hours after revealing the collection to the cohort of invitees. And in true Diesel spirit, the audience wasn’t limited to fashion week’s usual gatekeepers. Locals and tourists alike found themselves pulled—almost by force—into his immersive masterplan, with invitation cards distributed freely as if to strip the industry of its usual elitism.
The public was tasked with looking for all 55 different models scattered across different points of the city with chances of winning exclusive branded prizes as they did. Creating quite a frenzy in a city that’s already notoriously busy, the experience was generally well-received, aside from a few locals that could be heard grumbling about the extra congestion it caused; a small price to pay for fashion week theatrics spilling into their daily commute. The busiest spot? Probably Piazza Cesare Beccaria, a centuries-old square just steps from Il Duomo, where a live band kept the evening alive for some excited hunters and served as the meeting point for the label’s official after-party as it was hosted right next to it.
Though the way Diesel presented its collection was different, the usual signatures were as expected: reworked denim, distorted tailoring, textures that looked like they’d been weathered by time and elements, and unorthodox clashes of color and fabric. Utility coats with exaggerated patch pockets, washed coral skirts and tie-dyed shirts could be spotted across the ready-to-wear collection, at times teetering the line between uniform and rebellion as it was most striking in the 54th and 43rd looks for example. That tension — between the everyday and the extreme — is exactly where Diesel à la Martens apparently likes to sit, and by the looks of it, it’s a seat they won’t be giving up any time soon.
Keep scrolling to discover some of our favorite looks.
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