When Robert Dumas, then head of Hermès, first sketched a simple chain design inspired by the anchor links of a ship in 1938, he couldn’t have predicted that it would go on to become one of the maison’s most enduring signatures. Named Chaîne d’Ancre—literally “anchor chain”—the motif was first introduced as a bracelet, distinguished by its balance of strength and elegance. Over the decades, it has been reimagined in endless variations, gracing not just jewelry, but also leather goods, homeware, and even ready-to-wear. Over the decades, it became one of the maison’s most recognizable signatures, appearing across collections and proving endlessly adaptable.
That adaptability owes much to Pierre Hardy, Hermès’ creative director of jewelry since 2001. Known for his sculptural approach, Hardy has spent the past two decades reimagining Chaîne d’Ancre as more than a bracelet. Under his hand, the chain has been stretched, twisted, and blown up to monumental proportions, or fragmented into punkish statements. Hardy has always described his role at Hermès as one of continuity rather than rupture: “The codes are there; it’s my job to push them somewhere unexpected,” he has said.
This spirit of reinvention takes center stage in Dubai, where Hermès is unveiling a dedicated exhibition to the Chaîne d’Ancre at its Fashion Avenue flagship in Dubai Mall. Bringing together over 25 exceptional creations, the showcase offers a rare chance to trace the motif’s evolution.
Among the highlights is the Sac Bijou, an object so rare that only two exist in the world. Set entirely with diamonds and pink sapphires, and requiring 1,500 hours of painstaking craftsmanship, the miniature handbag is as much sculpture as accessory. Elsewhere, virtuosity takes on dazzling form in a Chaîne d’Ancre necklace set with 5,191 diamonds and a blazing orange sapphire. For contrast, the Chaîne d’Ancre Punk triple ring subverts tradition, twisting the familiar motif into something sharp and irreverent—a nod to Hardy’s talent for injecting edge into a house known for understatement. Bracelets and earrings round out the exhibition, each piece underscoring how a single idea can be endlessly reimagined without ever losing its essence.
That Dubai has been chosen as the stage for this showcase feels fitting. With its global mix of collectors and a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, the city has become one of luxury’s most important audiences. By situating the exhibition within its flagship in Dubai Mall, Hermès acknowledges the region’s role as both a patron of heritage and a frontier for contemporary luxury.
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